Morgan Davies: SMU Fashion Media

Self-Portrait is most popularly known for their lace mini and midi dresses that tend to be worn by at least one attendee at any formal or cocktail attire event . Their feminine cuts coupled with delicate lace creates an almost fantasy look. Yet, Self-Portraits’s Fall 2020 show was anything but cookie cutter lace.

Using cozy knits to create a chicer take on the sweater dress, Self-Portrait created a warm but wearable look. Designing with a white knit can be difficult with issues of sheerness or unflattering accentuation, but the dress which is pictured below is heavy enough to flatter but light enough to flow with the model’s step.

For cocktail dresses, Self-Portrait created more than just classic lace designs. In this black dress pictured below, the designers used a suiting fabric. This not only adds a bit of edge to a lace dress, but also makes it more appropriate for fall weather. The mix of heavy suiting and delicate lace at the hem creates a beautiful juxtaposition.

In addition to knits and cocktail dresses, Self-Portrait’s Fall collection featured pants, rompers and jumpsuits. As seen on the model in the picture below, Self-Portrait selected rich and shiny leather. The caramel color of these leather pants is a popular trend for leather pieces this season. The patent leather and pleat details create an interesting mix of modern and classic. Again, Self-Portrait paired the edgier leather fabric with a delicate lace. The model’s blouse is trimmed in a delicate and almost vintage looking lace. This lace elevates an otherwise very classic blouse. Additionally, the softer fabric of the blouse contrasts with and shines against the stiffer and structured fabric of the model’s pants.

The mix of structured fabrics like leather and suiting materials, with lace and chiffon has always been one of my favorite looks. Self-Portrait’s fabric choices for Fall 2020 perfectly captured modern femininity.

Thank you to Women’s Wear Daily for the photographs.

Designing for Dior, one the most respected houses, should be a dream that no one wants to give up, yet Raf Simmons did. In order to understand why Simmons would leave a job that most creatives only get to dream of, fashion fans must look to his hiring and his time at Dior.

In Dior and I, the immense pressure on Simmons to perform and limited time frame to create in is very clear. Going from Jil Sanders to Dior was an incredibly difficult jump. Yet, Simmons told The New York Times, “the first time I heard about the Dior position, I thought, ‘This feels right.’ ”

And for a while, it was more than right. His three years at Dior resulted in the blending of Simmon’s modern take on Dior’s classic and romantic designs. The combination made collections that were refreshed yet at the same time still true to Dior’s original legacy.

Between sketching one of a kind pieces, choosing locations and making an entire collection and show go from concept to product, artistic directors wear have may roles. With those roles comes immeasurable stress. From his breaking down before his first show to his panic when some seamstresses had to fly to New York, it is clear that Simmons understood and almost feared the expectations for his role.

Displayed by his reluctance to walk down the runway after his first show at Dior, Simmons is uncomfortable with the spotlight like many creatives. Yet, Dior seems to always be headlining in fashion news, so perhaps that could be part of why he went his separate way.

However, with six shows a year, two of which are haute couture, as artistic director, Simmons could have been stretched much too thinly. As seen in the documentary, each collection has his heart and anxieties poured into it and requires a team of people working sleepless nights. Additionally, the old school formalities, like being called “monsieur”, only add to his unease as seen in the beginning of the movie and also pointed out by The Cut. While his three years at Dior are over, Simmons designs and modernization of Dior will stay in Dior’s legacy long after his departure.